Caceres

Today I have reached Caceres ... another big city on the trail. As is common with big cities, it was not well waymarked and I lost sight of the yellow arrows altogether. So I followed the music of guitar and recorder ... medieval sounds that perfectly match this walled city. As I listened, the sun was shining warmly, a gentle breeze blowing, and a cobblestone street beneath my feet. The view was of a castle, and in the background a green field with horses. I didn't mind being lost at all.


The turismo was closed when I arrived, and is now closed again, but I obtained a map from a police officer, enjoyed a cerveza with a plate of olives while I mapped out where I could have walked if I had seen the arrows. Spied two pilgrims receiving directions from someone, so quickly paid my bill and followed them, but by then they had disappeared .. but I walked straight into a library, which was one of the things I had been looking for. The other was accommodation, and while I was wandering I found a lovely little pension, so that is taken care of too.


This is a beautiful city, full of interesting casas to wander into ... not sure how it all works really, but will spend the morning here tomorrow also and walk only 11 km.

Last night I stayed in a small town ... in an albergue that had only 4 beds, a big dining room, a fully equipped kitchen, a bathroom with spare toilet paper and hot water, extra blankets, and a washer and dryer. What a wonderful find for only 3 euros. And I had the place to myself.

Yesterday I walked for a time with Emilio, a man who lives 3 km out of the village, on the Camino trail. Every morning he walks into the village for coffee, and then walks back home, talking with a pilgrim on the way. I often wonder what it would be like to live on this trail and have strangers with backpacks passing through every day.

I have been enjoying watching the storks on top of every church. There was a time change this weekend, so it is now still dark when I get up and I can enjoy watching them silhouetted while I drink my morning coffee. Then later in the day I watch them while I eat lunch in the square ... yesterday one was gracefully caring for its young.

In the evening, I asked a man where I could find a grocery store, in order to buy supplies to use in my fully equipped kitchen, and he proceeded to draw me a map of where I could go to view many many storks. He was quite insistent on telling me about this place, 8 km out of the way. I thanked him, and told him I was walking, and walked on, but he drove after me to give me this map. There are plenty of storks here in Caceres too though, and I have enjoyed watching them with 3 young Spanish women before we went to the musesum.


For tonight ... a good meal, and a good night's rest in my wonderful little pension.