I am on my way to Portugal to reflect on my journey. This is an inward time for me, so I probably won't be blogging for a while.
Thank you to all of you for your encouragement and support.
Thursday, May 22, 2008
Onward
I am on my way to Portugal to reflect on my journey. This is an inward time for me, so I probably won't be blogging for a while.
Thank you to all of you for your encouragement and support.
Monday, May 19, 2008
Finisterre and Muxia
I couldn't stop walking after Santiago. Last time I was here I had wanted to walk to Finisterre, to the end of the world, but hurricane-like weather prevented me from making the journey on foot. So this time, I walked it. Only got soaked one day ... the others were surprisingly sunny, or at least a mix of sun and rain.
It felt wonderful to walk to the ocean, and to meet many other pilgrims from the other routes. Lots of camaraderie, and a new energy for that part of my journey.
I then walked from Finisterre to Muxia, a small fishing village which is a great place to rest after a very long walk. Beautiful, relaxed, on the ocean. Still lots of peregrinos celebrating the walk, resting, a quiet energy. And today is sunny, so I shall enjoy watching the waves.
It felt wonderful to walk to the ocean, and to meet many other pilgrims from the other routes. Lots of camaraderie, and a new energy for that part of my journey.
I then walked from Finisterre to Muxia, a small fishing village which is a great place to rest after a very long walk. Beautiful, relaxed, on the ocean. Still lots of peregrinos celebrating the walk, resting, a quiet energy. And today is sunny, so I shall enjoy watching the waves.
Sunday, May 11, 2008
Santiago de Compostela
I'm here in Santiago ... 1000 km!
I arrived yesterday, in a light rain. The people I'd been walking with for a couple of days walked in on the highway, 2 km shorter, but I chose the Camino, for I wanted to experience one more time the view of the magical forests, the sound of the birds, the smell of the herbs as I brushed against them, the beauty of the spring flowers in full bloom. I didn't recognize many of the plants I'd been seeing because they are so large here ... rosemary bushes and aloe vera, both as high as a house.
The way in to Santiago from this route provides the best view. I'd been expecting Santiago to feel like just another city, as it did on the Camino Frances, but I was pleasantly surprised. The cathedral was in full view about 1 km in advance, after climbing a hill, and then the path led straight to the cathedral. On the way I encountered several pilgrims I had met earlier, and they gave me a warm welcome.
The way took me past the tourismo, who reserved a room for me, and then to the cathedral. As I walked up the steps, the bells sounded to indicate that the pilgrims mass was just starting. The nun with the nightingale voice was singing, and the service included some of my favourite Taize songs. And then the botafumeiro ... the large incense burner which is swung on ropes across the cathedral, historically to mask the scent of pilgrims who have walked for thousands of km to get to the cathedral. It's wonderful to watch, and very unpredictable as to when they will choose to swing it ... it keeps people coming to mass, hoping to see it.
I have met more pilgrims in the last day than in the entire two months of my walk. Many pilgrims from the Camino Frances, eager to hear stories about the Via de la Plata, as they arrive in Santiago eager to walk again. And everyone with huge smiles on their faces. It feels wonderful to be here, and I am just soaking it in, relaxing, and enjoying being here.
I arrived yesterday, in a light rain. The people I'd been walking with for a couple of days walked in on the highway, 2 km shorter, but I chose the Camino, for I wanted to experience one more time the view of the magical forests, the sound of the birds, the smell of the herbs as I brushed against them, the beauty of the spring flowers in full bloom. I didn't recognize many of the plants I'd been seeing because they are so large here ... rosemary bushes and aloe vera, both as high as a house.
The way in to Santiago from this route provides the best view. I'd been expecting Santiago to feel like just another city, as it did on the Camino Frances, but I was pleasantly surprised. The cathedral was in full view about 1 km in advance, after climbing a hill, and then the path led straight to the cathedral. On the way I encountered several pilgrims I had met earlier, and they gave me a warm welcome.
The way took me past the tourismo, who reserved a room for me, and then to the cathedral. As I walked up the steps, the bells sounded to indicate that the pilgrims mass was just starting. The nun with the nightingale voice was singing, and the service included some of my favourite Taize songs. And then the botafumeiro ... the large incense burner which is swung on ropes across the cathedral, historically to mask the scent of pilgrims who have walked for thousands of km to get to the cathedral. It's wonderful to watch, and very unpredictable as to when they will choose to swing it ... it keeps people coming to mass, hoping to see it.
I have met more pilgrims in the last day than in the entire two months of my walk. Many pilgrims from the Camino Frances, eager to hear stories about the Via de la Plata, as they arrive in Santiago eager to walk again. And everyone with huge smiles on their faces. It feels wonderful to be here, and I am just soaking it in, relaxing, and enjoying being here.
Sunday, May 4, 2008
Ourense
I'm in the home stretch ... just over 100 km to go.
There are many more pilgrims on the trail now. It seems it all depends which day you go as to how many people you meet. In over a week, I saw only 5 other pilgrims, but two days behind were people who said they had 25-30 people in the albergue every night. I am staying an extra night in Ourense, preparing for the last stretch, and allowing the group to get ahead, hoping for a smaller group tomorrow.
The landscape is also less isolated here ... little villages every few kilometers. It still has plenty of ups and downs in terrain, though not quite as intense as the previous few days. After one of the steep stretches there was a lovely pilgrim-friendly bar, where the owner gave everyone a scallop shell on which we wrote our names and he nailed them to the wall, to the ceiling, wherever he could ... there are hundreds, but very few from Canada. There was a warm fire there, a friendly cat, good food, and wonderful camaraderie as we shared our experiences and prepared for the next stretch.
There is a festival happening here in Ourense ... the guidebooks said it was yesterday, and I was disappointed not to find it, but in reality it is happening today. A parade went by my hostal as I was waiting for the room. Lots of floats made of spring flowers, music of bagpipes, children dancing with flowers in their hair. It's great to soak in the energy of another Spanish festival ... light and airy, welcoming spring. And the 29 degree weather welcomes it too ... a pleasant surprise for Galicia.
There are many more pilgrims on the trail now. It seems it all depends which day you go as to how many people you meet. In over a week, I saw only 5 other pilgrims, but two days behind were people who said they had 25-30 people in the albergue every night. I am staying an extra night in Ourense, preparing for the last stretch, and allowing the group to get ahead, hoping for a smaller group tomorrow.
The landscape is also less isolated here ... little villages every few kilometers. It still has plenty of ups and downs in terrain, though not quite as intense as the previous few days. After one of the steep stretches there was a lovely pilgrim-friendly bar, where the owner gave everyone a scallop shell on which we wrote our names and he nailed them to the wall, to the ceiling, wherever he could ... there are hundreds, but very few from Canada. There was a warm fire there, a friendly cat, good food, and wonderful camaraderie as we shared our experiences and prepared for the next stretch.
There is a festival happening here in Ourense ... the guidebooks said it was yesterday, and I was disappointed not to find it, but in reality it is happening today. A parade went by my hostal as I was waiting for the room. Lots of floats made of spring flowers, music of bagpipes, children dancing with flowers in their hair. It's great to soak in the energy of another Spanish festival ... light and airy, welcoming spring. And the 29 degree weather welcomes it too ... a pleasant surprise for Galicia.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)
